"The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssié unwinds in the glass with aromas of yellow orchard fruit, warm bread, toasted almonds and mandarin. Medium to full-bodied, lively and fleshy, with a satiny attack that segues into a muscular, layered mid-palate, it concludes with a long, saline finish.

As I have written before, this fine 10-hectare domaine located in and around Chaintré deserves to be better known. Synthetic herbicides are rejected in favor of working the soils, and the Cornins practice biodynamic methods in a sector where such conscientiousness is far from the norm. The harvest is by hand, with fermentation in stainless steel followed by élevage in used barrels and demi-muids for the lieu-dit bottlings. Many of the domaine's vines are very old—fully a century old in the case of Les Serreudières. The result is fleshy but succulent wines that deliver immense pleasure on release but which are balanced to mature gracefully in the cellar. This is a serious estate, and Romain Cornin's commitment to his vineyards is just as evident as his diligence in the cuverie and cellar. The domaine's 2019s have turned out very well: concentrated and fleshy but underpinned by bright acids, everything reviewed her comes warmly recommended."